Whether it is warm or cold can be determined by alternating a gold or silver cloth under the chin.
This is one of the favorite tests of women’s magazines: the choice of personal color type. But the matter is not so simple with the tones. Every season new fashion colors invade stores, and not everyone has the sensitivity to detect which one suits them.
“Trying on a lot helps you find the right colors and cuts,” recommends trend analyst Carl Tillessen from the German Institute of Fashion in Cologne. When contemplating himself in the mirror, the person who is reflecting must not only ask the question of whether it is an incredible garment but also whether it actually favors him. That is if it really looks more relaxed and more radiant than if it were not used.
In case of doubts, an expert in colors and styles can be consulted. In a session of his workshop in the German city of Cologne, Nicola Schmidt states, for example: “If we use colors that do not correspond to the hue of the skin, the face suddenly looks paler and blotchy.” Because the skin under the surface, he affirms, is decisive in determining color. Unlike skin tone, which is modified by the sun, or hair, which can also take on another color, this hue remains throughout life.
To find the right colors for each individual, Schmidt, like many of his colleagues, uses the color theory of the four seasons. This classification is based on the Swiss painter and art educator Johannes Itten, who investigated during the 1920s what effects colors have on people’s features. The most significant difference is between cool (summer/winter) and warm (spring/fall) tones.
Whether it is warm or cold can be determined by alternating a gold or silver cloth under the chin. Schmidt uses colored collars that are tied around the neck to cover the cleavage. When the golden neck gives a vital aspect to the person, then this corresponds to spring or autumn. And if it is the silver neck that gives it luminosity, then the person corresponds more to summer or winter.
If it suits silver better, this has to do with pale, bluish, or rose skin tone. But this is not always so easy to recognize. And, continuing with the colors of the seasons, unlike what the type of summer suggests, soft colors such as light blue, lilac, mint, or pink harmonize with cold skin.
Where it is not so easy to determine by means of the colored collars, fabrics in other summer shades are added. Perhaps the person is winter – more substantial shades like cherry red, lemon yellow, and emerald green are recommended for this person. Black and white combinations are also possible.
Spring colors are light hues, such as apricot, lime green, or honey yellow. These tend to favor fair-skinned people with a warm, golden yellow or peach skin tone. Autumn-type skin is also friendly and golden. Earthy and warm tones like chocolate brown or fir green are recommended, as well as bright copper-red.
Each color modifies something in the face, and in the best of cases, the complexion is highlighted, the mouth and the cheeks or eyes become more brilliant.
“When the favorite colors have a rather disadvantageous effect on whoever wears them, then they may well use them in accessories, such as belts, purses, or shoes,” recommends Schmidt. The main thing, he indicates, is that that color that is not very advantageous is not found directly under the face.
In order not to make mistakes, many people choose to wear black clothing. “It swallows the light,” says the trend specialist. “That is why it is very suitable to hide and appear slimmer.” And Tillessen adds that, in addition, black can cause a mysterious and intellectual effect because it diverts attention from the body and focuses on the mind.
But there are also situations to which it does not adapt: ”Black in the conversation with a new client is rather disadvantageous because it gives a feeling of a great distance,” says Schmidt. Meanwhile, he adds
Colors of opposite polarities such as black and white can cause an authoritative feeling.
Nude colors, that is, soft tones like earth, sand, and cream, that resemble the hues of meat, only favor a few people. The reason: “From a distance, tight pants literally look like bare legs and bottom,” says Schmidt.
In addition, the expert adds, nude colors on fair skin make people look even paler, as well as plump, as long as they are not scrawny.